Wabash County Animal Shelter
810 Manchester Ave.
Wabash, IN 46992


Please see the Facebook page listed above for pictures and information on animals currently at WCAS.

Sunday & Monday:  Closed
Tuesday:  11:00 am - 7:00 pm
Wednesday:  11:00 am - 5:00 pm
Thursday:  11:00 am - 7:00 pm
Friday:  11:00 am - 5:00 pm
Saturday 9:00 am - 12:00 pm 
Reward Programs
We are member of the Kroger Community Rewards Program. Please go to http://www.krogercommunityrewards.com / to sign up. Our rewards number is 76621.

We are also a member of "Walk for a Dog" by WoofTrax. Check your smart phone apps store and select us as your shelter of choice! We earn money when you walk your dog!!!

Other ways to help
Volunteers are always welcome at WCAS. You can socialize animals or help cleaning, all of which are a never ending chores.

Current wish list
Laundry Detergent                                        Bleach
(for high efficiency washers)                     Pine-Sol
Paper Towels                                                     Clumping Cat Litter
Hot Dogs (for giving dogs medicine)

Endowment Information
The Wabash County Animal Shelter has an endowment at The Community Foundation of Wabash County. The endowment provides unrestricted support to WCAS for future needs.

Wish to make a Donation?

​You may mail us a check to the address above or online with "Givelify" or with PayPal below.

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Is the WCAS a city/county agency?

A: No. The Wabash County Animal Shelter (WCAS) is a non-profit 501(c)3 organization. Donations to us are tax deductible.

Q: Is your entire budget paid by the city/county?

A: No. Although the WCAS receives a portion of our budget from Wabash County, in 2015, roughly 50% of our monetary support came from non-government sources. When taking into account the many in-kind donations (bleach, detergent, paper towels, dog/cat food, etc) the non-government support would be closer to 65%.

Q: Is the WCAS a kill/no-kill shelter?

A: The WCAS is a limited admittance shelter. Though very few animals may be euthanized due to poor adoptability (aggression issues or medical conditions that affect the quality of life), the WCAS never euthanizes due to space limitations. Decisions regarding euthanasia are made with the assistance of and performed by a licensed veterinarian. Due to being a limited admittance shelter, there will be times when we cannot accept new animals because of our limited space. According to some national estimates, about 40% of dogs that go to shelters get their forever home. In 2015, 99% of the dogs entering the Wabash County Animal Shelter left to go to either a rescue or their forever home. Only a small number of dogs/cats had to be humanely euthanized due to being too sick or injured.


​About Us

The Wabash County Animal Shelter (WCAS) is very proud of the animals we adopt out. All of our animals are spayed or neutered before being allowed to go to their forever homes including all puppies and kittens. We test our animals to ensure that our dogs are negative for heartworms and the cats are negative for FIV/FeLV.  All dogs and cats will at least receive their initial vaccinations including the canine Parainfluenza Bordetella (Kennel Cough) Vaccine for the dogs. Most animals, if old enough, will receive their Rabies Vaccination. We keep our prices to adopt very low, (in fact much below our cost), so that the animals spend the minimum time in the shelter because we think it is better for the animals to be in loving homes.

Adoption Prices

Dogs (over 6 months) : $55
Puppies (under 6 months) : $65
Cats (over 6 months) : $40
Kittens (under 6 months) : $50

​Prices subject to change without notice.

Other Prices

Microchipping Fee : $15
​Nail Trimming Fee : $5

A Rescue is NOT:

1. Buying a pedigree animal from a pet store.
2. Buying an animal from a breeder.
3. Selecting an animal from a basket with a ribbon around its neck.
4. Buying an animal from a 'post it' note on the wall at the vet's office or the trunk of a car in a parking lot.


It's walking out of the animal shelter with an animal that no one else wanted - PERIOD.
Click Here to Donate with PayPal
                                                                                     Wabash County Animal Shelter 101

We have compiled some important information about the Wabash County Animal Shelter (WCAS) that seems to be unknown or misunderstood by the public.

We are a Limited Admittance Shelter. We are no longer a Kill shelter. Let us explain why. In a Kill shelter, perfectly healthy loving adoptable animals are put down to make room for another animal to have a temporary place to stay. It might be your loving lost animal that gets put down so another animal can take its place in the shelter. 

We are also not a No Kill Shelter. In a true No Kill Shelter, animals are not put down for any reason. In that environment, you need various rooms for sick animals to suffer and live out their lives. No matter how careful you are, other healthy animals many times will still catch the diseases. In a true No Kill Shelter, injured animals are sometimes allowed to suffer and just given occasional pain meds to help with the pain. 
We at WCAS love animals and want the best for them. As a Limited Admittance Shelter, we occasionally put down animals for poor adoptability such as issues with aggression or medical conditions that affect the quality of life. For example, in 2017, only 1% of the dogs received were put down for aggression or disease and only 6% of the cats received were put down for disease or injury. We Do Not euthanize for space. That means there are times when you may call and we do not have room for a stray animal. In the small shelter that we have, we only have room for 13 stray or owner-surrendered dogs and 2 kennels are kept open for law enforcement to quarantine a dog after a dog bite. If your child, grandchild, niece, or nephew was bit by a stray dog, I am sure you would want us to keep check on the animals for rabies instead of giving the child a series of very painful injections. (Note: We only take owner surrenders when we have ample room for additional strays). Many shelters never take owner surrenders. We only have room for about 24 cats and 8 of them are in the quarantine room. We keep a list of stray and owned dogs and cats and we take them in in the order the calls were received.   

Cats are very susceptible to many diseases, we have a special room that all of them must go in for a minimum of 5 days while we check them for various disease symptoms. We then vaccinate them and hold in the quarantine room till the vaccination antibodies build up to start to protect the animals.
We are very proud that over 45% of the stray dogs we end up with are returned to their owners. However, when an animal is injured by a motor vehicle, usually no one takes responsibility and just drives off. The shelter steps up to help save the animal, but we get stuck with spending a lot of money for our efforts. Those owners never seem to come forward and claim those animals.  
We appreciate the public’s support and ask you to be understanding when we are full and do not have room for additional animals. Most animals that get loose will find their way back home. We do our best to get animals adopted or find rescues for animals that are here for a while and have not been adopted. We also ask the public to remember, the real definition of “Rescue” is walking out of the animal shelter with an animal that no one else wanted!!! If anyone has any questions, feel free to call the shelter manager at 260-563-3511.

                     5 Ways to Support Your Local Shelter During Kitten Season

Kittens are adorable, but kitten season has a dark side. Here's what you can do to help.
Angela Lutz  |  May 13th 2016
It’s kitten season! Sounds adorable, right? There’s nothing cuter than a mewing, blue-eyed, bushy-tailed, roly-poly kitten. But like everything good and pure, kitten season has a dark side — and if you’ve spent any time in the animal rescue world, you probably already know what that is. Put simply, there are too many kittens and not enough homes, forcing these beautiful, amazing, intelligent creatures to struggle and often die on the streets or languish in cages waiting for a forever home.
It doesn’t have to be this way, of course, and many advocates and shelters are working hard to change this reality. Here are a few things you can do to help.
My boyfriend and I initially intended to foster Salvador the kitten. Seven months later, he’s still here — and learning to walk on a leash!

1. Volunteer
A universal truth for animal shelters: They always have more cats than they can care for, and these cats need help: fresh bowls of food and water, a clean litter box, mental stimulation, love and affection. Kittens, especially, require lots of play and interaction to ensure they’re properly socialized for adoption — and so they don’t completely topple their cages by literally bouncing off the walls.
Positive interactions with a variety of people before adoption can help kittens grow up to be friendlier and less fearful in new situations — and that, of course, is where you come in. Just spending 10 minutes helping a kitten burn off some of her excess energy can calm her down enough to make her more appealing to a potential adopter. And hey, you get to hang out with kittens, which isn’t such a bad way to spend a few hours each week.
For kittens in shelters, socialization is key. Photo by Jennifer C. / Flickr

2. Donate money or supplies
Another problem encountered by virtually all animal shelters: They need materials but lack the money to buy them. As nonprofit organizations, most shelters depend almost entirely on fundraisers and private donations. In my own life, “disposable income” remains an abstract concept — perhaps you can relate. But the good news is even a small donation can help. Look at it this way: If 100 people donate $10, that’s a sizable amount.
Animal shelters are also perpetually in need of supplies — and it doesn’t have to be anything fancy. Old newspapers make great litter box liners, and cardboard boxes are ideal for temporary litter boxes. Old blankets or towels can be used for beds. Got a stack of toys your cat never uses or a cozy bed you bought three years ago that she’s never slept in? Your local shelter can use all of it.
Your local shelter always needs supplies — and it doesn’t have to be anything fancy. Photo by James Wragg / Flickr

3. Foster
It’s true that fostering a litter of kittens requires time, space, and a certain emotional commitment. But according to Catster‘s JaneA Kelley, there are still plenty of reasons to consider fostering kittens. For starters, living in a real home with people (and often other cats) is the best way to socialize kittens and ensure they’ll grow up to be good pets. Fostering also gets the kittens out of the shelter, thereby making room for other cats who need saving — and might otherwise be facing euthanasia.
Salvador the kitten officially made me a foster failure. My older cat, Phoenix, is slowly learning to tolerate him.

4. Adopt an older cat
This might seem counterintuitive, but older cats suffer during kitten season as well, going largely ignored by many adopters. According to Cats Protection, a rescue organization with 31 adoption centers in the UK, more than six times as many kittens are adopted than older cats — but nearly 10 percent of the cats in their care are at least 11 years old. On average, these feline seniors take five times longer than kittens to be adopted — a figure that jumps to six-and-a-half times longer during kitten season.
Sure, kittens are cute, but senior cats are awesome as well. My 15-year-old gray tabby, Bubba Lee Kinsey, recently cuddled with me during the entirety of a three-hour binge of Daredevil on Netflix. My kitten, Salvador, is also excellent, of course — but when I’m looking for a bit of Zen and calm companionship, Bubba Lee Kinsey always delivers.
Bubba Lee Kinsey might be a senior, but he’s still quick enough to sneak a lick of my boyfriend’s cinnamon roll.

5. Spay and neuter
Perhaps the most obvious way to ensure the shelters and the streets aren’t overrun with homeless kittens is to make sure those kittens aren’t born in the first place. Spay and neuter your own pets — if you can’t afford a traditional vet, most cities have low-cost (or even free) options available, such as Operation Catnip in Gainesville, Florida. You can also get involved with trap-neuter-return — or TNR — campaigns targeting feral cat colonies in your area. Or you can start your own.
Even if your capacity to help is closer to a small donation than leading a larger rescue effort, every little bit helps.

Angie Bailey  | 

Tips on Adopting a Dog

Before You Take Your Dog Home:
Most dogs in shelters and rescues have been there anywhere from a few days to a couple of months. So even though when adopted they are going to a home with love and care devoted to them alone, they ,might have some difficulty understanding why they have “lost” another home. We ask you to read the following information to help you adapt to the adjustments you and your dog will make while becoming a whole family unit.
Things to Buy or Immediately After the Adoption:
Food, bowls for water and food, a leash, collar, and bedding. You can acquire bedding by visiting several garage sales. What works best are baby blankets, or thin blankets which can fit in the washing machine. Often cast-off, bulky comforters can be cut into quarters.
An ID tag. Some pet stores, such as PetSmart, have machines were you can create an ID tag immediately,
The Adult Dog:
There are many advantages to adopting an adult dog. You already know the size and the disposition of your pet, something not known of a puppy. However, you do not know your pet’s past. You do not know if he is housebroken or trained. He has had to adjust to different situations so it is imperative you be patient with your new pet and let him know and understand your patterns.
Things to Watch For:
When he’s first settling in, your dog may experience shyness, anxiety, restlessness, excitement, crying or barking. He may exhibit excessive water drinking, frequent urination, or diarrhea. His appetite may not be good. If any of these symptoms last more than a few days, call a veterinarian.
Be Consistent:
Your new dog must learn a whole set of new rules. Be patient and be consistent. If you want him off the furniture, don’t allow him to sit on the couch “sometimes”. Don’t allow him to do something one time and forbid it another.
A New Member of Your Family:
Within a week or two, your dog will have settled into his new home and his new routine. Some will take a little longer. Very few are unable to adjust at all. In most cases the dog will be a well-adjusted member of the family within a month. And well worth it, it will be. In fact, you will probably have trouble remembering when he wasn’t one of you.
Helpful Hints
Don’t panic if your new dog doesn’t eat for the first day or two, he (or she) is under a lot of stress and not eating is one response.
Don’t panic if your new dog has diarrhea – this is the other common response to stress. If it seems severe, try feeding him or her some cooked white rice. You can mix in a little boiled chicken if you want. If it doesn’t get better in a day or so call a vet.
Let your new dog get comfortable with the family before bringing strangers into the house – this particularly applies to children. If your dog still seems uncertain of him (her) self and you are expecting company, you may want to crate or confine your dog when company arrives.
Supervise children (your own and guests) when they are with the dog. Do not let your dog feel trapped by a group of children. Show children know how to be gentle with an animal. 
Read up on how to use a dog crate. See enclosed “Crated Training Made Easy”.
In the beginning, restrict the areas of the house to which your dog has access; you can always expand the area available to your pet, but it is more difficult to reduce it. See enclosed Help for the First Few Weeks”.
Don’t bathe or groom your dog the first week. This is a high stress period, and bathe and grooming is very intimate for a dog. Wait until your dog is more comfortable.
If your new dog is destructive or has accidents when left alone, crate your dog. See “Crate Training Made Easy”.
Even if your dog is already housebroken, or don’t know how he or she communicates that it’s time to go out; watch for clues such as pacing, whining, or standing at the door; develop rituals around going out so that your dog knows how to communicate with you. See “Housebreaking” for guidelines.
Make an appointment with your vet; even if your animal is totally up-to-date on everything. You will need to get your dog monthly heartworm preventive, and you should establish a relationship between you and your dog and a local vet. Bring the medical information sheet you got with your adoption materials to your vet.
Most dogs do best eating twice a day; ask your vet about how much to feed your dog. Unless your dog is extremely active, the recommended amounts on the dog food bags are usually too much. Feed each meal allowing up to 10 minutes for the dog to finish. If he doesn’t finish, pull the uneaten food. Feed fresh food at the next meal time.
Feed your dog the highest quality of food you can afford. The better the diet, the healthier the dog, which can mean fewer vet visits. A combination of wet and dry food is the healthiest diet.
If your dog sounds like he or she is coughing and/or wheezing, your pet may have kennel cough and should visit the vet to be checked.
By Sue Sternberg. www.suesternberg.com
Tips to help you and your adolescent dog through the first few weeks:
We’re so glad you chose an adolescent or adult dog to bring home – they have so much to give in return for your initial efforts. Remember, there is no dog out there without a behavior problem; if your dog’s basic temperament is sound, we can help make his transition into your home a permanent one, where you’ll both be grateful you have each other.
We want it to work out:
There are a few things you can predict when opening your home and heart to a new dog: a little less freedom and flexibility in your schedule, to find a poop or pee or two around the house in the first few days, and to sacrifice some personal item or belonging of value to nibbling K-9 teeth. You can also expect to be entertained by, in awe of, and in love with your new dog.
Most of the behavior problems and questions that come up in the first few weeks are easily addressed and solved.
Being left alone:
Teaching your dog that you are not going to abandon him when you leave him alone is not an easy task. Dogs who have come from a shelter or from the streets are very ready to bond to you, and they usually bond rapidly, closely and deeply. The same often holds true for the humans. People who choose to save a life by adopting a dog from a shelter usually form just as intense a bond with the dog. So both parties can feel devastated when the time comes to leave the dog alone. There are some things you can do to make this easier:
Be very casual about departures and arrives
AS SOON AS YOU BRING YOUR DOG HOME, depart frequently. Just step outside the house and close the door for a few seconds to teach him that you leave and return frequently.
Ignore your dog COMPLETELY for 20 minutes before departing. Just get up and go.
Leave the radio or TV on.
Feel OK about leaving and your dog will too.
What you need to know:
The more structure and guidance you give your new dog in the first few weeks, the better he’ll adjust. Just when you feel sorry for him and feel like over-pampering him – the kindest thing to do is set firm, clear limits. Lay down some rules (you can always break them later). Give him a schedule. Don’t let him dictate all the interactions; let him know immediately what pleases you and displeases you. Teach him to “sit” and ask him to sit throughout the day. It’s a great way to speak the same language. Your new dog will appreciate being told what to do. He’ll feel calmer with your confidence.
You’re likely to have a few accidents in the first few days, even from a housebroken dog. Don’t let this freak you out! When your dog first arrives home, he’ll want to sniff and explore the house, and this very act of sniffing can cause your dog to have an accident. Keep the dog on leash to explore your home, and then quickly walk him outside, where his permanent area will be.
Clean up any messes with an enzymatic odor neutralizer. Don’t get angry at your dog, you don’t ever need to punish him. Dogs learn very quickly where you’d prefer them to eliminate by repetition and success. Be patient, and be there when he goes, and REWARD!
By Sue Sternberg. www.suesternberg.com
The key to training your dog to eliminate outside (where you want him to go) is to prevent accidents, and to reward success. Adult dogs have better bladder control and can “hold it” for a longer period of time than puppies. The rule of thumb with puppies is: Take their age in months and add one, and that is the number of hours the puppy can “hold it” during the day. An example is a 4- month-old puppy can be expected to be clean for up to 5 hours during the day.
Feed your dog on a schedule, then he’ll eliminate on a schedule too.
Keep his diet simple and consistent. A high quality diet with very few treats will help build success.
Choose an area about ten square feet outside where you wish your dog to potty.
Take your dog on leash to the area and allow the dog to pace back and forth (movement promotes movement) and chant encouraging phrases like “do your business, do your business” or “go potty, go potty”.
Do this for a maximum of 3 minutes
If he eliminates, huge praise – treat and play.
If he doesn’t eliminate, keep him on leash – go back indoors and wither keep him on leash with you or confined in a crate.
Try again in 1 hour. Eventually your dog will eliminate appropriately and you can give huge praise and play.
After each success allow 15 minutes of freedom in the house before placing the dog back on leash or in the crate.
After 3 consecutive days of success, increase freedom by 15 minutes
If there is an accident, decrease freedom by 15 minutes for 3 days
If there is an accident, be sure to clean it up with an enzymatic cleaner.
Teaching your new dog these critical lessons will pay off all his life.
By Pat Miller as published in The Whole Dog Journal – Pat Miller is a freelance author and a professional dog trainer in Chattanooga Tennessee http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/3_8/features/5135-1.html
Some twenty years ago I got a new puppy. Keli was an Australian Kelpie, acquired by the Marian Humane Society to be my Canine Field Agent, partner and assistant in my daily duties as an Animal Services officer. Being selected for this program was a huge honor and responsibility. I was determined to do everything right in caring for and training my pup.
I had heard about a new technique in puppy-raising, called crate-training, where you put your dog in a small kennel at night, and whenever you had to leave him alone. I was skeptical. Put a puppy in a cage? It sounded cruel! Still, determined to provide cutting-edge care for my pup in this cutting-edge program, I decided to try it. After all, the puppy would be with me most of the time in the animal services truck, so we were really only talking about nighttime crating. Unconvinced but determined to try, prior to bringing the pup home I purchased a crate and set it up in my bedroom.
When I brought the 10 week old pup home, I braced myself for the two most trying challenges of puppy-raising; house training and chewing. I was about to be pleasantly surprised. The first night in her crate, Kali cried for a few minutes – typically behavior on the first night away from her mother and littermates. But then she curled up and went to sleep.
At 2a.m. she woke me with insistent crying. She was telling me she needed to go out – WOW! I got up, took her out to pee, then returned her to the crate and went back to bed. After another perfunctory period of protest she went back to sleep. When I woke up the next morning her crate was clean. I didn’t have to worry about stepping in – or cleaning up – puppy piles or puddles, and thanks to the boundaries of the crate, there were no chewed up shoes or electrical cords. My skepticism started to fade.
Two nights later it vanished completely when I went to put Kali in her crate and found Caper, my three year old Bull Terrier mix, already curled up on the soft pad in Kali’s airline Kennel. Caper looked up at me and thumped her tail several times, clearly saying, “These are cool! Can I have one of my own?” I went out the following g day and bought Caper her own crate, and I’ve been a crate convert ever since.
Home sweet crate:
The crate is a sturdy plastic, fiberglass, wood, and metal or wire box just big enough for a dog to stand up, turn around and lie down in comfortably. It can be used with the door open, at your convenience, or with the door closed, when mandatory confinement is called for.
When the crate is properly introduced using positive training methods, most dog love their crates. Canines are den animals and a crate is a modern den – a dog’s personal portable bedroom that he can retire to when he wants to escape from the trials and tribulations of toddlers and other torments. He can take it with him when he stays at boarding kennels, and when he travels with you and sleeps in hotels and motels.
Owners love crates because they generally make training a breeze and prevent damage to the house, furnishings, and personal possessions. They can give a new puppy-owner peace of mind Baby Buddy has to be left home alone. They can be used for a positive time-out when visitors tire of Buddy’s antics, or when he insists on begging at the dinner table.
The crate is also a great tool for convincing owners of backyard dogs to being their hounds into their homes (where they belong). By bringing the dog indoors but keeping him confined, at least at night, hesitant owners can ease their fears about mayhem and ruined rugs while at least partially integrating the deprived dog into the family.
Not a prison
A crate is note a place of punishment. Never force your dog or puppy into a crate in anger. Even if he has earned a time-out through inappropriate behavior, don’t yell at him, throw him in then crate, and slam the door. Instead, quietly remove the dog from the scene and invite him into his crate to give both of you an opportunity to calm down.
Nor is a crate appropriate for long-term confinement. While some puppies are able to make it through an eight-hour stretch in a crate at night, you should be sleeping nearby and available to take your pup out if he tells you he needs to go.
During the day, a puppy should not be asked to stay in a crate longer than two to four hours at a time; an adult dog no more than six to eight hours. Longer than that and you risk forcing Buddy to eliminate in his crate, which is a very bad thing, since it breaks down his instinctive inhibitions against soiling his den. Dogs who learn to soil their den can be extremely difficult, sometimes nearly impossible, to house train – a common behavior problem for puppies from unclean puppy mills.
Training do’s and do not’s:
Most puppies, even the majority of adult dogs, can be crate-trained with relative ease. Remember that the crate should be just large enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. He doesn’t need to be able to play football in it. If you want to get one large enough for your puppy to grow into, block off the back so he has enough room, and increase the space as he grows. Cover the floor of the crate with a rug or soft pad to make comfortable and inviting, and you’re ready to begin training.
Start with the crate door open, and toss some irresistibly yummy treats inside. If he is hesitant to go in after them, toss the treats close enough to the doorway that he can stand outside and just poke his nose in the crate to eat them. If you are training with a clicker or other reward marker, each time he eats a treat, Click the clicker (or say “Yes” if you are using a verbal marker).
Gradually toss the treats farther and farther into the crate until he steps inside to get them. Continue to Click each time he eats a treat. When he enters the crate easily to get the treats, Click and offer him a treat while he is still inside. If he is willing to stay inside, keep clicking and treating. If he comes out that’s okay too, just toss another treat inside and wait for him to reenter. Don’t try to force him to stay in the crate.
When he enters the crate to get the treat without hesitation, you can start using a verbal cue such as “Go to bed” as he goes in. so that you will eventually be able to send him into his crate on just a verbal cue.
When he happily stays in the crate in anticipation of a Click and treat, gently swing the door closed. Don’t latch it. Click and treat, then open the door. Repeat this step, gradually increasing the length the door stays closed before you Click. Sometimes you can Click and reward without opening the door right away.
When your dog will stay in the crate with the door closed for at least 10 seconds without any signs of anxiety, close the door, latch it, and take one step away from the crate. Click, return to the crate, reward, and open the door. Repeat this step, varying the time and distance you leave the crate. Don’t always make it longer and farther – intersperse long ones with shorter ones, so it doesn’t always get harder and harder for him. Start increasing the number of times you Click and treat without opening the door, but remember that a Click or a “Yes” always gets a treat.
It’s a good idea to leave the crate open when you aren’t actively training. Toss treats and his favorite toys in the crate when he’s not looking, so he never knows what wonderful surprises he might find there. You can even feed him his meals in the crate – with the door open – to help him realize that his crate is a truly wonderful place.
If at any time during the program your dog whines or fusses about being in the crate, don’t let him out until he stops crying! This is the biggest mistake owners make when crate training! If you let Buddy out when he is fussing, you will teach him that fussing gets him free.
If, however, he panics to the point of risking injury to himself, you must let him out. You may have a dog with separation anxiety challenge. A crate is generally not recommended for dogs with separation anxiety, since they tend to panic in close confinement. If you believe your dog has a separation anxiety problem, stop the crate training and consult a behaviorist or a trainer who has experience with this behavior.
Instead of letting your dog out whenever he fusses or whines, wait for a few seconds of quiet, then Click and reward. Then back up a step or two in the training program until he is again successful at the task you’ve set out for him. When your dog is doing will at that level again, increase the difficulty in smaller increments, and vary the amount of time, rather than making it progressively longer. For example, instead of going from 5 seconds to 10 to 15, start with 5 seconds then 7, then 3, then 8 and so on.
Maintaining success:
Sometimes dogs and often puppies can do the whole crate training program in one day. Some will take several days, and a few will take weeks or more. Once your dog is crate trained, you have a valuable behavior management tool for life. Respect it. If you abuse it by keeping buddy confined too much, for too long a period of time, or by using it as a punishment, he may learn to dislike it. Even though he goes to bed willingly and on cue, reward him often enough to keep the response happy and quick. Keep your verbal “Go To Bed” cue light and happy. Don’t ever let anyone tease or punish him in his crate. (Kids can be especially obnoxious about this. Watch them.)
All of my dogs quickly learn the “Go to bed” routine. I Don’t even have to use the verbal cue; usually when I emerge from brushing my teeth, they are already curled up in their crates for the night.
By Sue Sternberg. www.suesternberg.com
Changing the name of your dog is OK
Sometimes adopting a dog means adopting a dog with a name you don’t particularly like. Actually, it is easy for your newly adopted dog to learn a new name. Don’t feel that a dog cannot learn a new name, and don’t feel that a dog can’t even learn a name completely dissimilar to his previous name. A dog or puppy of any age can learn a brand new name within a few days.
Here is how:
Decide on any name you wish for your adopted pet
For the first few days, carry a pocketful of treats
Every once in awhile, and also specifically when you want your dog’s attention, call out his new name and then immediately smile, praise heartily and feed treat.
Even if he doesn’t turn to look at you call out the name, do the above anyway, and soon he will know that hearing that word means great things are coming – and he will respond as if that word is his own!
Once you have decided on your dog’s name one of the easiest choices, yet most responsible choices, is to purchase a name tag with your name and number on it – and have your dog wear it at all times. They are available at most pet stores as well as some veterinarian offices.